Loodvervanger heb je nodig om te voorkomen dat je uitlaatklep en -zittingen verbranden. Vroeger zat er Tetraethyllood in de benzine, dit verhoogde ook het octaangetal. Maar dat zit er niet meer in, slecht voor het milieu.
Het lijkt erop dat onze Eend motoren redelijk tegen ongelode benzine kunnen, dus je zou zonder loodtoevoging kunnen.
Maar feitelijk zou je de uitlaat kleppen zittingen moeten vervangen voor geharde exemplaren, die beter tegen ongelode benzine kunnen, of een loodvervanger gebruiken.
Dit schrijft Cats:
http://www.cats-citroen.net/citroen/unleadedfuel.html
Running on unleaded fuel
So what can you do to run on unleaded fuel? There are 3 basic options.
Keep going.
Most cars built after the 1970s seem to have very few problems with unleaded fuel. As long at the proper octane leve for your engine is used, the ignition won't need any modifications. A testimony to this is that most Citroëns (we've tried DS, GS, GSA and CX) run on LPG without any problems. LPG (Liquid Propane Gas) contains no lead or lead replacement. These cars usually do a high anual milages (otherwise the LPG system isn't cost effective).
Please note that I don't take any responsibility if something goes wrong when you apply this information on your or other cars! As you will probably understand by now, there is always some risc involved.
Use additives.
There are some good additives available. Red-line and Wynns produce good proven additives. Some additives also provide an octane boost. This means that: 95 octane unleaded + additive = 98 (or more) octane leaded. However, always read the instructions on the bottle carefully before using this stuff! Most additives need to be mixed into the fuel properly and will sink tot he bottom if the car is left standing for a longer period of time. Therefore it is better to store the car with a full tank of unleaded petrol if it will not run for more then a month.
Convert the engine to unleaded.
This involves replacing the exhaust valves and seats by hardened ones as used in modern engines. Most engine rebuilters only have/use hardened components anyway. For an A-type engine this costs 100-200 euro per cylinderhead, depending on the wear of the head.
Het octaan getal is een referentie maat voor de klopvastheid van de brandstof.
De bedoeling is dat de brandstof ontbrand op het gewenste moment door de vonk van de bougie, en niet door zelfontbranding.
Als er zelfontbranding optreedt, gaat de motor pingelen, en dat is schadelijk voor het mechaniek.
Dit staat hierover in Cats:
Octane
The octane level is usually denoted by a number in the fuel type (usually in the 85-105 range). The octane reduces the risc of "knocking" and/or "pinking" in the combustion chamber. Pinking sounds as if a small stone is rambling around in an empty sump. The higher the octane level, the better the resistance to knocking. Apart from the octane level, the compression ratio is also highly related to knocking/pinking. As the compression ratio increases, so does the risk of knocking/pinking. Most Citroën engines need 98 or 97 octane. To be certain about your engine, check the owners manual of your car. All flat twin and flat four engines are listed here, all engines suited for 95 octane are specially marked, all others need 98 octane
Je moet dus wel degelijk kijken of je motor geschikt is voor 95 of 98 octaan brandstof. Kijk even hier
http://www.cats-citroen.net/citroen_aty ... arbox.html
Dus om je octaangetal te verhogen moet je een octaan booster geruiken. Lees wat er op het flesje staat.
